Ruta por Francia: costa atlántica hasta París. Primera semana.

Portada Ruta Francia

A punto de terminar agosto, llegamos con la primera crónica de nuestro viaje a Francia. El primer viaje largo que hacemos con nuestro Bamush y que nos ha dejado una buena colección de momentos y experiencias. Poco a poco en sucesivos post iremos desgranando los aprendizajes, las cosas buenas, las no tan buenas, los trucos aprendidos, los lugares visitados en profundidad, en definitiva, todo lo aprovechable de esta ruta.

Por lo pronto, queríamos empezar con una perspectiva general del recorrido realizado hasta París (para no aburrir a las ovejas, hemos dividido la explicación de la ruta en dos post).

Aquí tenéis la primera parte de la ruta realizada (que no la diseñada):

Ruta por Francia

Día 1: Madrid. Zugarramurdi (Navarra)

Si algo teníamos claro, era por dónde íbamos a entrar en Francia. Las cuevas de Zugarramurdi ya habían sido descartadas como destino de finde por estar lejillos, así que cuando fijamos como ruta -después de muchas vueltas- la costa Atlántica de Francia, no hubo más discusión en este punto. Y acertamos. El pueblo y la zona son sin duda dignos de una visita. En medio del tremendo calor de agosto, fue un oasis para nosotros bajar de la furgo con esa niebla húmeda y fresquita tan característica de las montañas del norte. Visitamos las cuevas y el museo de las brujas y ambos sitios nos gustaron mucho, el primero por su belleza natural, el segundo porque ayuda a comprender cuestiones muy interesantes respecto a lo que tradicionalmente venimos llamando “brujas”, además de que te revela la historia del lugar.

zugarramurdi

 

Día 2: Zugarramurdi-Arcachón

Después de dormir bien fresquitos en un parking público (junto al frontón) donde había varias furgos y AC, nos levantamos, nos hicimos nuestro café, y desayunamos mirando unos ponis de una finca cercana que hicieron las delicias de nuestra niña (sin perder de vista que también ella está de viaje, siempre nos recreamos en aquello que le gusta). Zugarramurdi lo vimos, como quien dice, en una tarde muy bien aprovechada.

Ahora poníamos rumbo a Arcachón, ya en la costa Atlántica de Francia. Antes de llegar al pueblo como tal, paramos a visitar la Duna du Pilat, la duna natural más alta de Europa. Nos sorprendió en primer lugar el atascazo de la carretera secundaria que llevaba a la Duna (en la que también hay un aquapark, un casino, varios campings, además de la propia Duna, de ahí el ambientazo). Visitamos la Duna, preciosa, pero petada de turisteo, como es lo propio en esta época del año. Antes de subir a la Duna tienes mercadillo y todo. Algunas furgos y AC hacían noche en el parking.

dune

De aquí salimos a Archachón, que está al lado. Es un pueblo costero con todas las de la ley. Y por supuesto sus playas también estaban petadas aquella tarde. Además nos hizo mucho viento. Estuvimos en un aparcamiento frente a un pinar muy chulo, aunque cerca de una carretera secundaria, pero también muy cerquita de una de las playas. Novatada: llegamos sin agua y tuvimos que pagarla a precio de oro en un hotel. En adelante lo primero que haríamos todos los días sería reunir unos cuantos litros. Por la noche dimos una vuelta por el paseo marítimo y Uve pudo montar por primera vez en un precioso tiovivo. Así nos pasamos el resto del viaje evitando pasar frente a ellos y pudimos darnos cuenta de que en Francia hay muchos.

 

Día 3: Arcachon-La Rochelle.

Llegamos por la tarde a este precioso pueblo de La Rochelle. Hicimos la compra y nos dirigimos a un parking con zona de AC donde los turismos pagaban 5 euros y los camping car 15 euros por 24 horas. Estaba bien comunicado por el centro histórico con un paseito.

La Rochelle tiene un pequeño puerto rodeado de calles comerciales y un centro histórico de aire medieval muy pintoresco. Sus murallas son el broche a un pueblo que tiene un ambiente que nos pareció muy especial. Lo visitamos una tarde y una mañana, y pillamos mercado tradicional (el lunes por la mañana) en su mercado de abastos, un lugar precioso y estupendo para comprar y probar productos de proximidad a muy buen precio. En La Rochelle hay un acuario muy popular y quisimos visitarlo, sobretodo para que Uve viera los “pese”, pero desistimos cuando llegamos allí y nos encontramos una cola de más de una hora para pillar entradas. Nos fuimos un buen rato a un parque cercano que, como muchos de los que nos encontramos por Francia, estaba perfectamente equipado y conservado.

larochelle

Desde este pueblo se accede a la Isla de Re. Un lugar que, aunque no nos dio por visitar, nos han recomendado mucho. Siempre hay que elegir y siempre se quedan cosas por ver, ésta fue una de las nuestras.

Nos fuimos de este pueblo con muy buen sabor de boca hacia nuestro siguiente destino.

 

Día 4: Jard Sur Mer

Queríamos un sitio perdido de la costa y lo encontramos eligiendo al azar uno de los pueblos pegados al mar que veíamos en el mapa. Sin referencias. Queriendo hacer pocos kilómetros. Con ninguna expectativa. Acabamos en una playa bastante desahogada y con el agua buenísima haciendo con que practicábamos body board o lo que es lo mismo, haciendo el ridículo integral  sobretodo, carcajeándonos un buen rato. Después, un paseíto por un pequeño paseo marítimo y un banana split, y a dormir en un espacio amplio, medio parking, medio zona de merenderos, entre pinares y junto al mar. Precioso. Inolvidable el temporal que calló por la noche. Fue una visita fugaz a un rinconcito de Francia del que no esperábamos nada y sin ambargo nos dió bastante.

jard

Día 5: Nantes

Llegamos a la cuidad de Nantes improvisando, no estaba en nuestra ruta inicial, que consistía en meternos hacia Brest, en el saliente más occidental de Francia. Finalmente nos apeteció ir más directamente hacia Mont Saint Mitchel y dejamos de hacer ese “pico” que hace el mapa francés hacia afuera. Para hacer menos kilómetros y tener más tiempo para saborear los lugares y de paso, ahorrar en gasoil y peajes. La mayoría de nuestros destinos fueron elegidos al azar, sin saber bien dónde llegábamos.

Este fue el caso de Nantes. Aprovechamos que se trataba de una cuidad de mediano tamaño para entrar en camping y así lavar la ropa, ducharnos, descansar más. La tarde del camping fue de piscina, la que está junto al camping y que los usuarios del mismo pueden utilizar era sencillamente brutal: tobogan, piscina de olas, chorros de hidromasaje, piscina infantil con agua templada. Una pasada. Ni que decir tiene que a Uve no había quien la sacara de ahí. En bucle en el tobogán nos vimos gran parte de la tarde. Después, en el camping te invitaban a un vinito (que estaba más que pagado con los 47 eurazos que costaba la noche) asíque estuvimos de relax entre vino, pisci, parque. La mañana siguiente sería también para la piscina y después de comer, ya sí, nos fuimos a visitar Nantes durante toda la tarde.

nantes

La cuidad nos sorprendió para bien. Muy bonita, con un castillo lleno de patos que se te ponían al lado (imaginemos el éxtasis de Uve con los animalejos), una catedral preciosa, un canal no muy grande pero navegable, en el cauce del río Loire, y muy paseable, como a nosotros nos gusta.

 

Día 6: Champtonceaux-Mont Saint Mitchel

Después de la visita a Nantes, como no queríamos dormir en ciudad, buscamos algún furgoperfecto en las proximidades y a 20 kilómetros apareció una de las grandes revelaciones del viaje: Champtonceaux. Un pueblo precioso sobre un mirador del Valle del Loire junto al cual estaba un parking de AC gratuito, y para colmo de bendiciones, con un parque al lado, de la furgo y del mirador. Un sitio sencillamente precioso. Llegamos a última hora de la tarde pero con la suerte de que los días son largos y el pueblo pequeño, dimos un buen paseo, comimos un helado y disfrutamos mucho de este lugar idílico. También de la carretera que llegaba a él desde Nantes, que atravesaba por secundarias todo el impresionante Valle del Loire, patrimonio de la UNESCO muy merecido. El atardecer en este lugar fue un regalazo.

Al día siguiente pusimos rumbo a Mont Saint Mitchel. Uno de los pocos sitios marcados como imprescindibles en nuestro camino. Teníamos muchas ganas de verlo y no nos decepcionó. Nos quedamos en el parking de Beauvois, a pocos kilómetros del monte. De hecho junto al parking salía el camino y ya se veía nuestro destino. Eso sí, en Beauvois había más servicios que allí, y el parking era gratuito y estaba junto a unos baños.

mont

Con Uve, hicimos el camino a Mont Saint Mitchel a ratitos en la mochila, a ratitos andando, a ratines a hombros de papá. No llevamos la silla de paseo y creemos que fue un acierto porque una vez en el pueblito todo son cuestas, escaleras, gente por todas partes, y habría sido muy poco manejable, no nos habría rentado para los pequeños rats en que Uve la quiere. El pueblo de Mont Saint Mitchel parece sacado de una novela Épica. Jorge mencionó Minastirith cuando lo vio. No sin acierto. Es un sitio sorprendente, especial, inovidable. Incluso a pesar de su saturación de tiendas de Souvenirs. Nos gustó un montón.

A la vuelta, nos decidimos a probar lo que veníamos viendo por todas partes desde que entramos en Francia: Moulis frites, o lo que es lo mismo: mejillones al vapor con patatas fritas. Una combinación muy curiosa que estaba bastante buena.

 

Día 7: Mont Saint Mitchel- Caen

Otro de nuestros hitos era Caen, como capital del histórico desembarco de Normandía. Aquí alguno es un poco frikillo de esa parte de la historia y no quería perderse la ruta del desembarco, que comprende esta capital y su Memorial, y algunos otros pueblos y playas donde se desarrolló la conocida como Batalla de Normandía. Pues en Caen hay, sobretodo, un Memorial, museo conmemorativo de esta batalla, que por supuesto visitamos.

A estas alturas del viaje ya habíamos requetecomprobado que en Francia lo de las autocaravanas y furgos camper no es nada anecdótico, es una forma de viajar muy normalizada y el país está preparado para recibir este tipo de viajeros, que están por todas partes. El memorial admitía AC y camper para pernoctar allí mismo, aunque justo al lado había otro pequeño parking que había sido tomado por la AC. Como no teníamos claro si colaríamos entre las AC, nos fuimos al otro cuando terminamos la visita. Estaba a pocos metros y desde uno, se veía el otro.

El memorial de Caen es un poco denso, es un repaso histórico de la segunda guerra mundial, por supuesto desde la lectura histórica oficial. El sitio está muy currado, pero a nosotros la visita se nos hizo larga y cara (20 euros por cabeza para pasarte la mayor parte de la visita leyendo de pie… bueno. Esperábamos algo más ameno). Punto a su favor: tienen guardería gratuita y preciosos jardines a su alrededor. Aunque no fuera lo que esperábamos, sí lo consideramos una visita positiva antes de adentrarse en los escenarios del desembarco, te ayuda a entender mejor qué pasó allí y por qué, pero desde luego es una visita incómoda para hacer con niños. Uve estuvo un rato en la guarde pero no tanto como necesitaba la visita, que está entre las 3 y 4 horas.

caen

A última hora de la tarde nos fuimos al centro de la ciudad a dar la vuelta de rigor, y aunque fue ver el forro, podemos decir que nos pareció una ciudad agradable, llena de placitas con terrazas de bar para tomar algo, muy peatonal, llena de tiendas y de vida. Nos llamó la atención especialmente que vimos muchas librerías de todo tipo.

 

Día 8: Caen- Arromanches (playas del desembarco)

La visita a las playas del desembarco (a dos de ellas) nos llevó solo un día. Nos decantamos por Omaha Beach y Arromanches. En la primera no hay restos, hay una escultura conmemorativa y la playa que, ya de por sí, es impresionante. Claro que el clima no estaba en esas latitudes como para meterse un baño, pero dimos un buen paseo y recogimos conchitas con Uve.

Luego visitamos el museo de esa localidad, otro Memorial más específico que el de Caen, centrado en el desembarco y la batalla de Normandía, sin tanta contextualización histórica. Había escenarios donde se representaban escenas militares, armas y vehículos de guerra reales de la batalla de Normandía, y muchas, muchas pequeñas y curiosas reliquias del desembarco, desde monedas, hasta paquetes de tabaco, o armas fosilizadas encontradas en las playas entonces o hace pocos años. A nosotros nos gustó más este Memorial que el de Caen. Aunque no hicimos noche aquí, hay un aparcamiento justo frente a la playa que tiene una pinta estupenda para la pernocta, de hecho, había varias camper.

De Omaha Beach nos fuimos dirección a Arromanches, y por el camino paramos en el cementerio americano. Un lugar muy solemne, hiper cuidado, todo honorable. Tropecientas cruces de mármol, un espacio de conmemoración, unas vistas preciosas al mar. En definitiva, un sitio curioso. No paramos mucho por allí ante la fijación de Uve de levantarles las flores a las cruces… Pero creemos que es un acierto pasarse a verlo. No estaba en la ruta inicialmente planteada, nos lo encontramos en indicaciones de la carretera.

Desde Omaha Beach hasta Arromanches hay un paseo por carreteras secundarias muy bonito y petadísimo de vehículos vivienda. En Arromanches, nos quedamos en la zona de AC, aunque también hay camping con buenos precios para autocaravanas y furgos. Nos encontramos el típico rastrillo de los vecinos que vacían sus trasteros y nos compramos un par de cosas curiosas (era domingo). Aquí hay otro Memorial pero ya nos parecía demasiado tragarnos tres. Desde el punto de vista del marketing turístico esta zona está hiper orientada a venderte todo lo que tenga que ver con el desembarco y ves alusiones a tal hito histórico por todas partes. A esas alturas, ya estabamos un poco saturados.

En Arromanches se pueden observar los restos del puerto artificial que instalaron en el desembarco. Enormes bloques de hormigón que nadie ha recogido y que se comen las algas décadas después de su instalación. El pueblo es agradable y ese día lo encontramos muy animado.

arromanchesomaha

De aquí pusimos rumbo a París, que merece su propio post pos razones obvias y para no eternizar este. En breve contamos nuestra fugaz pero estupenda experiencia en la ciudad de la luz y la vuelta hacia España de nuestro particular Tour de Francia…

 

Y en sucesivas publicaciones, desgranaremos poco a poco todo el tema de furgoperfectos, zonas de pernocta, gastos, peajes, y todo ese blablabla que tan bien nos viene a la hora de planificar una ruta muy recomendable. Quien sabe si un podcast… jejeje.

 

Hasta muy pronto 😉

 

 

NOTA: Por problemas técnicos y para no retrasar más esta publicación, las fotografías las hemos sacado de internet y tienen licencia Creative Commons. De todas maneras, pronto renovaremos el post con nuestras propias instantáneas.

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  103. Apple previously incorporates Rhapsody as an app, which is a Wonderful start out, nevertheless it is already hampered via the incapability towards retail outlet domestically on your iPod, and contains a dismal 64kbps bit selling price. If this adjustments, then it will considerably negate this comfort for the Zune, nevertheless the 10 tunes for every month will nonetheless be a massive furthermore in just Zune Pass’ prefer.

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