Ruta por Portugal: Lisboa y alrededores en 6 día

Algunos de nuestros(2)

RUTA: Plasencia-Nazaré-Pèniche-Lisboa-Santarém-Fátima-Plasencia.

Kilómetros totales: 724

 

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Después de los primeros contactos de puentes y findes con la furgo, tocaba algo más largo. Teníamos una semana libre para rular a nuestro antojo y nos fuimos no muy lejos, pero sí a un país que nos encanta y por el que nos hemos dejado caer mucho: Portugal.

Nuestra experiencia con Portugal viene a significar: comer bien, pagar razonablemente, disfrutar de playas algo menos masificadas que las españolas, y menos hiperexplotadas, y sorprendernos a cada paso. Es un país bastante desconocido para lo que tiene que ofrecer, que es mucho. Y lo cerca que está.

Ya habíamos recorrido en coche la mitad sur, desde Sintra hasta el Algarve. Alba conoce y está perdidamente enamorada de Oporto, y fue una de las primeras ideas, hacernos un Oporto-Lisboa, pero al final optamos por ir a Lisboa y alrededores para poder hacer conducciones más cortas y que la peque no se agobiara de mucha furgo. No obstante, es perfectamente factible hacer un Oporto Lisboa en una semana, y ahora que conocemos las dos ciudades podemos decir que es incluso muy recomendable.

 

Como habíamos pasado a ver a la familia por Cáceres, partimos desde allí a Portugal, entrando por esa provincia, desde Plasencia hasta Castelo Branco fue nuestra primera tirada (150 km) , allí paramos un rato a merendar, y como la peque tenía cuerpo de siesta, tiramos otro rato hacia Nazaré (200 km), un pueblo costero precioso que por estas fechas está tranquilo, y que es totalmente amigo de las furgos y AC. Estaba lleno de ellas.

A cinco minutos andando de la playa hay dos parkings de tierra petados de autocaravanas y furgos. Nosotros paramos en el menos petado, que estaba un pelín más lejos (1 minutos más).  Este aparcamiento se ve perfectamente a medida que desciendes en dirección a la playa. Tanta súper AC juntas no pueden no llamar tu atención.

 

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Esa tarde, paseíto por la playa viendo una preciosa puesta de sol desde un parque infantil en primera línea de mar. Probamos la bifana, que viene a ser un bocata de lomo, pero es típico y lo típico, hay que probarlo. Estaba bueno y tirado de precio, con refresco, 2,5 euros.

El día siguiente amaneció precioso en Nazaré, y cono Uve toca diana bien temprano, después de un cafetito necesario y un desayuno bien tranquilo y a gusto en nuestro microsalón, nos fuimos para la playa cuando aún no te torrabas demasiado. Antes de las 11 de la mañana ya habíamos paseado, jugado con la arena, mojado los pies (más, no hubo huevix), practicado yoga y meditación. Vamos, ya habíamos hecho el completo. Así que a las 11 fuimos a recorrer el pueblo. Muy bonito, muy alegre, muy portugués, con sus baldosas decorativas por todos lados y ese punto de abandono pelín decadente que resulta nostálgico y romántico.

Al lado del funicular (que no funcionaba) nos tomamos un vino de Oporto en una tasca, tasca. El vino, de 10, la dueña del garito encantada con Uve y esta entretenida yendo y viniendo, ya que el bar está justo en una pequeña calle sin salida y peatonal, frente a la entrada del funicular. Libertad total de movimiento para la enana, disfrute total del vino para los padres.

Después de otra vuelta nos comimos un prato del día de pescado tipo merluza (nos dijeron lo que era, pero no supimos traducir) que estaba demasiado bueno para costas 7 pavos con sopa o postre y bebida incluida. Una comida de esas que te ponen de buen humor.  El pueblo está plagado de ofertas como esta.

Nazaré es famoso por sus olas gigantes, que atraen surfistas de todo el mundo y que según hemos visto en fotos, dan cierto yuyu. Nosotros no presenciamos ninguna, el mar estaba bien tranquilito, como nosotros.

En la hora de la siesta de Uve, tiramos hacia el sur, rumbo a Peniche (63km). Y nos sale rodado el asunto porque duerme todo el viaje. Otro pueblo surfer friendly, te lo dejan claro desde que entras. Normalmente surferos y furgos suelen estar relacionados pero lo cierto es que no vimos tantas furgos y caravanas como en Nazaré.

 

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En Peniche había camping por 9 euros para las furgos. Nosotros no lo usamos porque dormimos junto al faro, donde encontramos dos autocaravanas. Nos pareció un sitio bucólico, precioso. Justo ese día hacía un tiempo regular y soplaba el aire y se escuchaban las olas rabiar contra el acantilado que quedaba a pocos metros de nosotros. Por el tiempo, por primera vez tuvimos que cocinar dentro de la furgo y se dio muy bien. Así, mecidos por el viento y el rumor del agua, pasamos la noche después de merendar en la playa y visitar el pueblo y el cabo que queda junto a él y que tiene una miniruta con vistas espectaculares. Nosotros la hicimos con Uve en la mochila de porteo. No tiene ninguna dificultad, pero está rodeada de acantilados y no es plan de que los peques vayan del todo sueltos.

De Peniche nos largamos a Lisboa (100 km). Hasta ahora, siempre fuimos por carreteras secundarias y se dio bien, porque hay carreteras nacionales que son realmente rápidas y cómodas, y te ahorras un pico en peajes además de tener bastante mejores paisajes. Seguíamos con este chip de la secundaria pero este viaje no se dio tan bien, se hizo largo, entre otras cosas porque Uve no se durmió y se ve que no le apetecía mucho coche y lloraba bastante. Cosas que pasan con los beibis a bordo. Paramos alguna vez, durmió un ratejo, pero poca cosa. De todos modos, al final llegamos a Lisboa y su camping.

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El camping de esta ciudad te da (yendo con furgo) una parcelita con agua y electricidad incluida, no la pagas aparte. Cuesta, eso sí, un pelín más de lo habitual: 30 euros la noche. Las instalaciones están muy bien, hay una gran piscina que ya había osados disfrutando, hay restaurante con buenos precios, varios parques infantiles, minigolf y muchos árboles y campo abierto. Nos quedamos dos noches para ver bien la capital, que ninguno de los dos conocíamos.

Llegamos a mediodía, comimos, y nos pillamos el bus 714, que para en la puerta del camping y te lleva al centro pasando por el barrio de Belém, los dos enclaves turísticos más solicitados de Lisboa. Vamos, que está bien comunicado. Eso sí, el viaje vale 1,85 euros, carillo comparando, por ejemplo, con Madrid. Y tarda una auténtica eternidad en llegar.

En fin, esa tarde vimos el barrio de Belém, los Jerónimos y su torre, pero sobretodo paseamos por los parques de la ribera del Tajo, contemplando el imponente puente 25 de abril. Merendamos pasteles de nata y de cerveza, riquísimos, y jugamos largo rato junto a un palacete tailandés que hay en un parque ideal para estar con los niños un buen rato disfrutando de la ciudad.

El día siguiente estaría totalmente dedicado a visitar el centro de Lisboa. Precioso, nostálgico, romántico, sorprendente. Su tranvías y sus tuk-tuks yendo y viniendo, sus colores, sus vistas mientras asciendes hasta el castillo de San Jorge. Visitamos éste castillo después de perdernos un rato, y finalmente mereció la pena: vistazas espectaculares. La entrada cuesta 8,50 euros y si llevas un niño de fardo tienes prioridad y te ahorras la cola, como fue nuestro caso (esta prioridad también la tienes en el asiento del autobús y en la cola de súper, lo que nos pareció genial). Después de callejear de lo lindo y empaparnos de Lisboa, volvimos al camping a cenar en nuestra furgui.

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La mañana siguiente la pasamos en el camping descansando, lavando ropa, paseando y de parque en parque, descansando y disfrutando. Y de nuevo aprovechamos la V-Siesta para continuar, esta vez hacia el interior: rumbo a Santarém (78 km), una ciudad de la que no habíamos oído absolutamente nada, pero que resultó ser un museo gótico-barroco andante, petada de iglesias de diferentes estilos artísticos, y con unas calles blancas llenas de encanto. Sorprendente. Lo único malo fue que ni había zona de ACs, ni nos suelen apetecer los parkings demasiado urbanos, así que no encontrábamos a última hora un sitio para dormir que nos molase… Pusimos rumbo a Fátima (60 km), que era nuestro siguiente objetivo, aunque pretendíamos llegar al día siguiente, no estaba nada lejos, y ya por autovía, menos.

En Fátima teníamos la teoría de que un sitio que recibe tropecientos peregrinos tiene que tener sitios donde meter tu furgo, y no nos equivocamos: nada más entrar, un pedazo de parking de autobuses con muchísimos sitio libre, merenderos y baños en sus alrededores. Llegamos justo a la hora de cenar, así que l propio: aprovechamos el merendero de turno y tan bien que cenamos, con la fresca. No es que seamos precisamente unos fanáticos de las apariciones marianas, pero reconozcamos que el sitio nos daba cierta curiosidad. Bonito, es, como cualquier edificio pintoresco, tiene su gracia, da para una buena foto, pero también para una buena reflexión sobre el pedazo de negocio que hay montado en torno a la aparición. Jamás en ningún lugar del mundo habíamos visto semejante concentración de tiendas de souvenirs. Realmente el pueblo que creció en torno a la ermita, es solo tiendas, restaurantes y servicios turísticos. Todo muy espiritual, vamos.

 

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Lo mejor, que pudimos zamparnos una señora francesinha que estaba  de muerte justo antes de poner rumbo a casa. El viaje estaba programado hasta el sábado, pero al haber llegado adelantados al último destino, decidimos volver medio día antes.

Nuestra furgo estuvo a la altura. Seguimos sacándole partido, descubriendo necesidades y mejoras, pero también fortalezas y puntos muy potentes. Vamos conociendo cada vez mejor a nuestra compañera de viaje y nosotros, como equipo viajero, vamos cogiéndonos los ritmos y aprendiendo a colaborar para disfrutar todos: viajamos despacio, recorremos pocos kilómetros, nos detenemos en los parque y damos manga ancha a nuestra peque, y a cambio tenemos viajes reposados, cero estrés, ratos de relax que en otros tipos de viaje no teníamos, caminos y carreteras inesperadas, intriga y curiosidad por saber dónde tocará dormir esta noche… y al final todo sale tan bien, que nos convencemos a cada kilómetro de que hemos tomado una buena decisión dándonos a este tipo de viajes.

 

tresenfurgo.com(4) tresenfurgo

 

Enganchados, adictos, enamorados de la furgo y de los viajes en ella…

 

Muy pronto, más kilómetros 😉

 

 

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